![]() ![]() Will this effect top end longevity in the long term because the head is drained of this instantaneous protection at start up? OK, so my question is what if I go gambling with this system by putting a standard, open cage roller in place of the solid aluminium bearing? See where I’m coming from? Will the oil flow out through the bearing rather than stay in the “bath” and do the job it was designed to do there? Another thing to consider is where the oil will go when the engine is shut down and put on the side stand? The engine is leaning over on the side of the bearing and the oil will drain out of the channel between the bearing ball races. Where is all this leading AGman? Stop waffling and get to the point. Maybe a bit of help from a spinning camshaft half submerged in a bath of lubricant was intended to get the oil where it needed to be as well? The rockers are splashed lubricated and sit above the cam so the oil has to get up there some way. The oil pressure of the AG200 and its derivative engines is not particularly high so I’m not sure if the sole oil supply to the head (the largish holes from the spinning camshaft) are the only intended means for getting the oil around all the mechanical parts in the top of the engine. I suspect this is significant in its design and think it’s critical to how Yamaha engineers intended the oil to move around the head to do its job. The length of the cam runs in a channel that acts as a bath of oil. Next time you get the chance to have a look inside your AG200 cylinder head, take note of how Yamaha designed it. But I stopped and contemplated the issue for a bit and the following is why I chose the bearing type I did. A lot of guys on the TW and XT forums slap any old bearing in and it seems to work fine for them – that’s great. There are a few issues that makes me decide which one to go with though. A generic 6005 is the part number and most manufacturers make them. But hey, this hasn’t stopped machine owners doing stupid, pointless upgrades for over one hundred years so lets get on with the procedure! There is a funny hiss sound from the head with the old, solid bearing that seems to disappear when a nice shiny roller is chucked in so that is about all you will see in real world terms I guess. Ttr beancounter mod#So this mod probably achieves very little, maybe the satisfaction of the owner knowing he has gone the extra mile in machine-love for his bike! It does run a bit quieter I have noticed. Ttr beancounter install#When you pull it out it’s nearly always worn and is usually the first thing to seize up when there is an oil supply issue, not that this is a bad thing – better than a crank I suppose! Think of it as a sacrificial anode! I just look at this big chunk of aluminium and wonder why they couldn’t install a proper roller bearing in it? So anyway, in the real world I guess you could say this mod reduces a bit of friction and maybe a bit of unnecessary oil heating in the head. If you have spent time on these engines, you may know this cam bearing is a suspect area of the top end. Ttr beancounter upgrade#Unfortunately, the machines we use today are full of these bean-counter-induced short cuts, so when you see an easy fix or upgrade to a machine you want to go ahead and do it right? I do anyway! Corners cut just to save a few bucks and to hell with the inefficiencies it creates for the machine and customer. ![]() ![]() So what’s the point of this modification? A mechanical minded person never likes seeing things done second rate. The fact that it makes the AG run a bit nicer is just pure coincidence. This is not a performance mod, it’s a “How Yamaha should of done it” mod. ![]() Ttr beancounter mods#I know what you’re thinking Oooooh…hot performance mods from AGman! And you would be wrong. ![]()
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